Previously in Part I we discussed the best way to properly water, fertilize, and give your bonsai plant ample measures of sunlight and humidity. In the following paragraphs we are going to talk about some additional, crucial juniper bonsai care recommendations covering subject areas such as re-potting your juniper bonsai, the best time to prune your juniper, getting rid of unwanted pests, and taking good care of your juniper during the winter.
About Pruning Your Juniper Bonsai
New growth will usually show up on the tips of your juniper bonsai tree branches in the springtime, and occasionally you will see more new growth in the autumn. In the course of these cycles of new growth you will want to nip off these new buds to prevent the branches from developing fast growing shoots and causing your tree to look slightly untamed. You should not start pinching the buds until around four weeks after new growth very first appears in late spring. Older more mature foliage must also be got rid off in the spring which will help reduce the amount of inner growth, and permit the sun’s rays to pass through without difficulty and much more air to circulate. The juniper bonsai will carry on growing through the summer months, producing new buds. Keep pinching these off in order to keep the shoots from growing which will make the tree appear untidy.
Pinching off new growth isn’t going to harm the plant. This is most likely the procedure that you’ll make use of more than any other to miniaturize your juniper for bonsai and to shape it into the style you have picked for it.
Repotting Your Juniper Bonsai
Junipers plants need to be repotted about every two years when they’re juveniles (fewer than five or six years of age) and after that only every three to five years once they reach maturity. A free-draining soil mixture should be used. The spring as well as the fall are the very best times of year to re-pot your juniper bonsai. Junipers are vulnerable to root rot. If you see root rot when you are re-potting, you should cut away all of the affected roots after which you can re-pot working with only sphagnum moss. Ensure that it stays in the moss for a full year or so to give the roots time to recover. Sphagnum moss is bacteria and decay resilient and also is really water absorbent. Right after repotting your juniper be certain to water it completely and then keep the plant in a shady place until the roots have recovered.
What You Need to Know About Pruning Your Juniper’s Roots
You can actually re-pot your juniper plant in either the spring or the fall. And when you do you ought to look to see if the plant is starting to become root-bound. After you have removed the tree from it’s container, with care remove some of the soil from the rootball. Cut away around one-third of the plant’s roots. Return the plant to it’s pot, putting it in a mixture of 3-parts planting medium with 1 part sand to replace the lost soil. Your juniper might be in a little bit of shock right after having it’s roots pruned and being re-potted. To help it recover faster you can include just a little transplant shock supplement to the water can and water completely. Keep the foliage moist by spraying 2-3 times per day for 2 weeks.
Pest Control
Should you be growing your juniper bonsai inside you’ve got to be particularly aware and on the lookout for spider mites. They could cause real damage to your juniper. Incorporate a regularly planned once a month spraying of your junipers using an insecticide designed for household plants. Indoors or out, make sure to spray all your other nearby plants which could also have the spider mites.
Winter Care for Your Juniper Bonsai
To maintain good health, your juniper bonsai tree really should be kept in a cool (under 60 degrees F) throughout the winter months for them to experience a dormancy or rest period. If you keep your juniper outdoors ensure that you safeguard it from harsh drying winds.
Your juniper bonsai tree does best when it has a “Winter” to complete it’s natural cycle. Place it in a cold space in the winter, the chillier the better. A freeze followed by a sudden and quick rise in temperature will damage your bonsai. Which means you would be doing your plant much more harm than good by bringing it inside soon after it’s been subjected to freezing temps. The freeze itself is not going to lead to harm to your juniper. If the temperature remains below 50F in the winter your juniper bonsai will only require indirect light. If the temps remain below 50F degrees during the winter then the plant isn’t going to require much water.
If you can’t simulate winter with a cold room or basement or shed, then try, at least, to keep your bonsai plant away from getting direct sunlight. Whenever your bonsai is kept inside your home at room temperature, make sure you humidify it by misting it maybe once or twice per day.
Japanese bonsai gardening is a hobby that is fascinating, affordable, and easy to get involved in. Bonsai can be enjoyed by people of all ages, and can last a lifetime. Click this link to learn more about growing your very own juniper bonsai tree: Juniper Bonsai Tree, and sign up for your FREE 7-part introductory mini-course on how to grow miniature bonsai trees. Or, to get started growing your own bonsai trees trees right away check out the highly regarded “how-to” bonsai book “Beautiful Bonsai Secrets” at the website.
It is widely known that the secret of keeping your bonsai both healthy and miniature is to prune not only its branches but the trunk and roots as well. Pruning is a bit scary to newcomers to the hobby of caring for bonsai trees, as pruning roots damages a plant, restricting its ability to take up water and nutrients while pruning branches must be done carefully to ensure that you end up with your desired shape.
The time when your bonsai will need its roots trimmed is usually between one and five years after you bought it. This time frame is only a guide for caring for bonsai, as a number of factors effect the amount of time a tree takes to become rootbound in its pot; different species of tree have different levels of development and the variables such as the size of the pot, the development of the rootball and the age of the tree all have an influence on the growth of the roots.
When you take the tree out of the pot to inspect it each year, usually in the spring, you will be able to see if the roots need pruning. If you find that the roots form a circular ball around the edge of the pot, it’s time to trim or prune the roots. If the roots of the tree are still contained within the soil, the tree can be returned to the pot and pruning can be left for another year.
There is a tool specially designed to help you expose the roots. This is called a “root hook” but it doesn’t have to be this specific tool. You could try either chopsticks, screwdrivers, or a crochet needle as what you are trying to do is to gently work in between the roots to loosen the soil surrounding them.
While you have got the roots exposed, this is an good time to inspect the roots for early signs of decay and rot. It is vital when caring for bonsai trees, that we remove these dead roots as they will cause trouble in the future if we do not get rid of them.
You need to know how much root to cut off and how to select the right roots to be ‘cut back’ to a degree to keep them healthy and small enough for the pot.
Look for the long large roots that dominate the pot and trim them back. In particular, look at the downward growing roots. These need to be removed as they will eventually begin to ‘lift’ the tree out of the pot.
What we are trying to achieve here is to make way for the smaller feeder roots that will continue to sustain the growth of the tree while keeping the root system small enough to survive in the small pot.
You want the root system to spread laterally, from the trunk base or nebari rather than downwards, like anchors.
It is best to use a sharp knife or shears when cutting the roots and try to cut them with a downward slant. When you do this, there is less chance of water gathering in the exposed part of the newly cut root which in turn lessens the chance of infection setting in.
It is important when caring for bonsai trees that you do not remove more than 30% of the roots in any one year. This is important as you don’t want to reduce the root mass to the stage where it can’t support the tree so, generally aim to only remove about 1/3 of it.
Although there is a lot of information available on caring for bonsai trees, the pruning element still seemed to be rather daunting to me. It was difficult to have the confidence to do actually cut the roots for the first time.
I found that the best thing to do was to find a person experienced in caring for bonsai trees and watch them before I attempted to do it myself. Once I had seen it done, I had the knowledge on what to trim and what to leave and I could get on with the task of pruning my bonsai, confident that I was doing the right thing for my tree.
It is important to get the proper knowledge so that you don’t end up killing your tree. To find out more on caring for bonsai trees bonsai tree care
Bonsai tree care is the art of growing trees in miniature and it is originally from the countries of China and Japan. This is done by manipulating the trees environment by keeping it in conditions that make it small, such as growing it in a miniature sized bowel. This restricts the trees growth from reaching it’s full height and it doesn’t damage your plant as you are only preventing it from reaching its normal size. The results from this can appear very beautiful however, however there are many other techniques that need to be learned if you truely want to master the art of growing miniature trees. Wiring, clamping, watering, fertilizing, cutting and pruning all need to be considered and mastered.
If you’re just starting out then the best way to learn about bonsai tree growing is to go out to the shops and buy one. Alternatively, you can instead buy some seedlings or take a cutting from another plant, however it’s usually easier if instead you purchase a young, premade plant from your local gardening center. Young bonsai trees still have many years of growth and potential ahead of them and you’ll be able to avoid having to go through the time consuming stages of growing a seedling or cutting.
New bonsai owners should also think about the different styles you’ll want your future tree to grow into. There are many forms to choose from and you should look up information on the species of your plant so you can identify which style which will suit it best. A couple of the styles that you might want to use include: semi-cascading/ cascading styles – this is when the plant hangs over the side of the pot or droops beneath the level of the bowel; lot’s of wiring and clamped is required to achieve this look. There are formal and informal upright postions – this is when the tree is grown vertically upright just as it does in the wild, however with the informal style some curvature of the trunk is encouraged. Others styles to mention include the windswept look – where the tree grows to one side and appears to have been blown by the wind over the years, plus also the coiled look – where the tree is turned many times upon itself.
The great thing about this hobby is that if your tree is looked after properly it can live with you for the rest of your life. Some bonsai trees are so old generations of people have been looking after the tree. Bonsai’s which are hundreds of years old exist. To achieve such an old age with your plant you really need to know the correct bonsai techniques and instructions and it’s important to avoid any diseases or pests which might attack the tree at any time. The best way to avoid these problems is by making sure the tree is growing in a healthy environment in the first place.
Tim Green has been a bonsai enthusiast for many years and is passionate about helping others achieve beauty and excellence with their bonsai trees. For more great information on bonsai tree plants visit Tim’s website at http://www.bonsaitreecarecenter.com/.