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What is Bonsai Video. All about creating bonsai trees. The art of the bonsai tree. History of the bonsai tree. The techniques of the bonsai tree. Tools to create bonsai trees. How to create bonsai. Benefits of Bonsai
bonsai trees
Growing and caring for a bonsai tree can be both easy and difficult at the same. Therefore it is important that you know how to properly care for a bonsai tree. Care for this type of tree involves watering, pruning and proper planting. A bonsai tree requires a certain amount of sunlight and water. Too much of either can cause more harm to the tree than good and it can actually kill the tree. This is why it is important to know how to take care of the tree before you decide to grow one in your home. One of the most favourite of the bonsai trees is the ficus bonsai tree.
Caring the for the ficus bonsai tree requires a great deal of patience. This type of tree needs to be kept inside all year long. Since it is a small tree and is planted in a small pot, you can occasionally bring the tree outside to give it some fresh air. Just like with other bonsai trees the soil should be given a chance to dry out in between watering. To test the soil you can stick your finger into the soil about an inch down; if you feel moist soil then you should wait to water your tree. However, the key is to not let the soil stay dry for an extended period of time because this could kill the tree. There is a specific way to water a bonsai tree as well. You should allow the tree and the container it is in to soak for about ten minutes. Once it has soaked, you should allow the water to drain from the soil until no more water drips from the bottom of your container.
Replanting of a ficus bonsai tree is an important part of caring for a bonsai tree. It should be repotted once every two years. This is a type of tree that has a tendency to grow slowly but there are times when the bonsai tree will go through a growth spurt and if its container is somewhat small you might want to consider repotting before the two year period has expired. If you allow the tree to grow in a small pot it will begin take over the pot and as a result it will cease to grow after a period of time. If you need to change the pot in which you are growing your bonsai tree you should wait until the early months of spring to do so. After it is in the new pot, it should be watered thoroughly and then kept in the shade for at least a period of three weeks. This will give the root system time to take hold in the new pot.
Caring for the Ficus Bonsai tree means that you need to understand how your tree will react to the different temperatures and weather conditions during the different seasons. It is important that the bonsai tree is kept indoors during the winter months because it is not able to withstand cold temperatures. However, while indoors the tree must be kept in a sunny area so that it does get the proper amount of light. The temperature should be kept between 60 and 65 degrees at all times.
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Hello all bonsai devotees. How are you? My name is Suhendra. I want to tell you my experience on how to keep, treat and create black pine bonsai. Perhaps this experience is only suitable for tropical area and I hope those who plant black pine will also have different experience to share. I have tried to plant black pine since 5 years ago (around 1980) when I got the seed from a friend traveling abroad.
I have known and fallen in love with black pine bonsai, since I had learn about bonsai for two years from a foreign book on how to treat and create bonsai by practicing directly, so that I gradually master it. When I learned that book, I saw a picture of black pine and Cemara (Juniperes) bonsai that were so beautiful and robust. Even more so the black pine with its cracked bark so that it looked old, antique and elegant. According to Taiwanese bonsai grower, black pine could live in both winter and summer. In those seasons, its leaves are still green and thriving, so that we can call it evergreen tree. From books I have read, I’m sure that this tree could grow in tropical area. From that time, I had been determined to get that kind of tree and tried to plant and grow it in Indonesia.
In the mids of 1980 I and my elder went to Taiwan to attend an international exhibition of bonsai. While looking for special new trees to enrich the variety of bonsai in Indonesia, from Taiwan I brought home some kinds of bonsai that I’d been always seen on some foreign bonsai books that we couldn’t find in Indonesian market (before 1985). They are: Hokkian Tea (Carmona mycrophylla), Pyracanta (Pyracanta Grenulata), Ulmus (Ulmus Parfiflora), Karet Kimeng (Ficus Microcarpa). After buying those bonsai, one thing I shouldn’t forget to be my prime target of searching is Black Pine. Setting aside my pocket money for returning home, I spent the rest to buy various kinds of pine, starting from seeds, young trees, half-grown bonsai, and grown-bonsai.
Some Taiwanese bonsai grower told me that Black Pine (Pinus Thumbergii) grows best compared with any other kinds of pine they plant. There are three kinds of Black Pine:
1. Those with long leaves (which is generally spread out in the market).
2. Those with short leaves (Seu Sung).
3. Those with mini leaves (Zuen Sau Hei Sung).
The three Black Pines are the most preferred by Taiwanese bonsai grower to be dwarfed. Beside that, I have learned some techniques on how to plant and treat black pine that I want to share with you.
PROCESS BEFORE PLANTING
Coming home, I had all my trees washed because it’s forbidden to bring the soil from Taiwan. This is the regulation among countries to prevent the spread of plant pest. Then I opened the plastic cover of mos (soil substitute covering the root so it stays moisturized along the trip) one by one. After that all the roots that had been cleaned from mos was soaked with plant vitamin or organic fertilizer liquid for about one hour. Last thing to do was to keep the plant out of soaking liquid and planted it on the pot.
MEDIUM FOR PINE (Suitable for Casuarina=Juniperus too)
3 bg sand of 1-2 mm (do not use powder sand) +
1 bg loose soil (Do not use sticky soil such as clay, etc.) +
1 bg humus (or compost to substitute humus).
After being mixed well, it can be used to plant (you can see how to plant in a pot on article of Loa Variegata). I’ve got a little story about sands. In around 1990 in Indonesia there has been found a kind of pit sand (pasir gunung) from perimeter of Malang, so that it is called pasir Malang (Malang pit sand). This kind of sand was found by hobbyist and raw-material (bakalan) bonsai hunter in the nature. The specialty of this sand is clean and has no powder or waste. We may say that it’s been free from pests and germs that are usually found on soil or pit sand. So there’s no need to have it washed it anymore and it has pores to keep water and air. There are several kinds of plant that are better being planted on this sand rather than any other media, i.e. Santigi (Phempis Acidula), Cemara Udang (Casuarina Equisetifolia), Black Pine, Cemara, etc. Naturally Malang pit sand is beneficial for bonsai hobbyists and some devotees of ornamental plants such as cactus, adenium, sansivera, etc. Then I use this pit sand as composite for media to plant Black Pine and other bonsai.
PROCESS AFTER BEING PLANTED
After black pine is being planted in a pot, the trunk always has to be tied tightly into the pot so that the tree is more stable. It’s because any repotting tree is in critical period. Its root hasn’t been converged with its new media so that it hasn’t been normally functioned. Moreover when we cut some of the roots and new roots grow, the latter is still easily snapped off if it is shaken, and the tree will be possibly died. After being tied, put it in the shade then water it perfectly (until the water comes out of the pot bottom hole). Let it be there for about two, but please not to let it be too wet or too dry. We’d better to keep it a little bit dry than to keep it too much wet, in order to prevent its root from getting rotten. This will be different from what we should do to growing black pine (see the description below on watering). After two weeks the trees will look healthy and strong with its green leaves. Now it’s time for the tree to have sun bath gradually. Then wait until new bud comes up, which is a sign that its new root has grown and the tree is ready to have a full sun bath.
There are some bonsai hobbyist who don’t know the media and the planting process, or don’t have much patience in planting and treating black pine (which is different from maintaining ficus or any other kind of bonsai). Doing treatment improperly will lead to the death of black pine. When this happens, they will easily say that black pine could not be planted in Indonesia or will be dead if it’s being re-potted. The worst is when there are bonsai hobbyists and sellers who has just seen black pine picture on bonsai books tell the same things. This makes bonsai newbies or collectors being defrauded and don’t want to treat black pine.
TREATING GROWN BLACK PINE BONSAI
The pruning (cutting the leaves), can be done when we see the old leaves has been grown yellow or looked a little bit dull. We can do it in two ways: shearing or pulling out. The best way is the second one, that is gradually pull out the old leaves. To prevent pulling out the whole group of leaves, use your left hand to hold the lower end of the leaves group, and use your right hand to pull out the old leaves one by one, and leave the young ones. If you prefer the first way, shear the old leaves at about 1 cm higher from the leaf stalk. This is to provoke the new bud from the rest of those old leaves. Unfortunately, shearing will leave brown traces, and these unsightly traces will stay there for months before they disappeared.
To keep the twigs and the leaves short and dense (to avoid disfigured or to keep the good shape), do the following:
1. Gradually pull out the old leaves every year.
2. Cut the twigs, small twigs, and new buds once every two or three years. This is to keep the shape from being undesirable. Two or three new buds usually come up once a year naturally. Cut off the very thriving (big) bud and the very weak (small) bud by shearing from the lowest part. Leave the moderate growing buds until they release their new leaves. Then cut it at the length we intend to. Two weeks later, there will come up the second bud from the trace of cutting. If it is needed, do the same to the second bud, so that we will get the third bud. The second and the third buds will create the short twigs and leaves. This theory is he same with bonsai tree that will have big leaves in the country but after making it bonsai planted on the pot by cutting its leaves several times, the leaves become small such as Sancang (Phemna Microphylla), Beringin Karet (Ficus Ratusa), etc.
3. When the leaves of the new bud have grown, do not cut off too many twigs when the leaves of the new buds has blossomed because in this phase, the trace of cutting will release much turpentine (sap) that will possibly kill the tree. The best time to shape and shear the twigs is when we start to see its old leaves (looks yellow and dull). This shows that this tree is stop growing temporarily and is saving energy before releasing its new buds. It’s the safest time to prune black pine by pulling out or shearing, and cutting the twigs too, because it’s the strongest period of the tree.
THE WAY OF REPOTTING / CHANGING THE SOIL OF BLACK PINE BONSAI
The process of repotting bonsai to be black pine can be done once in three or four years, because black pine’s root grows slowly. Do not repot before two years because its roots haven’t been old enough. If we repot after 4 years, the roots will be too dense in the pot, and this will retard its growth and fertilization.
Please repot this way. After pulling bonsai out of the pot, we may see the lump of root that has been converged with the soil. Throw 1/3 part around the lump by scraping the soil and shearing the roots that is too long. Then put it again into the pot with the medium described above, by scraping, so the tips of the old roots can directly penetrate into and converged with new medium. This will guarantee its life after repotting. Don’t even repot by cutting or sowing the lump of soil and root flat as if we’re slicing the cake and then plant it again. This way make the old root lump covered by the new medium, causing an undistributed heat in the lump and will finally make the root rotten.
According to my experience in planting black pine, we shouldn’t do pruning while repotting. Once my gardener didn’t follow my instructions. When I went out of town and didn’t supervise him, he was repotting and pruning at the same time. This caused some half-grown black pine trees died.
In Indonesia which has two seasons, the best time to repot black pine is between the end of dry season and the beginning of rainy season (around the beginning of September), but pay attention to black pine condition too. Repotting should be conducted when new bud has just come up before the leaves blossom. When the leaves have blossom, then the tree will be weak and the risk of repotting will be bigger.
Well, that’s my experience on treating black pine bonsai. Hope it’ll be useful for those who want to treat or collect black pine bonsai.
Suhendra is the owner of Bonsai Star Gallery (http://www.bonsaistar.com) and former chief of Bandung-Indonesia Bonsai Society (2003-2004). In his site you will get information on bonsai Tree, bonsai plant, bonsai for sale and everything about bonsai.
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Bonsai Trees with Say Anything Intro! This is a song I have on here two other times.. But both times on guitar. I wrote this song on a borrowed guitar (thanks sandy) while I was in Hawaii with my future wife. She was sleeping and I was sitting on the balcony in Waikiki over looking the Ala Wai River. If you have seen this river it has these trees on i’s banks that look like Bonsai Trees… well from where I was sitting.. The song is all true.. And now I play it on ukulele all the time! She likes it.. PS: she was never mad at me.. it was just me doing some video shenanigans… you know how i roll!! rate comment.. sub it up!!
bonsai trees
Bonsai trees are extremely sensitive to their conditions and the caretaker needs to learn how to properly take care of these wonderful and attractive plants. Here are a few tips to ensure that you’re able to keep your tree healthy.
Bonsai trees are kept small by pruning the branches and roots and growing the trees in pots. A tree planted in a small pot is not a bonsai until it has been pruned, shaped, and trained into the desired shape. Bonsai trees are associated with artistic shapes and forms. This refers to the art of training and cultivating miniature trees in pots and containers.
Bonsai trees are not miniature naturally, but can be made out of any ordinary tree or shrub and are miniaturized through bonsai techniques. There are many different bonsai techniques, some are basic techniques while others are very advanced and only practiced by experienced bonsai masters.
These trees are living miniature trees and bonsai is the reproduction of natural tree forms in miniature. The practice of growing and forming these beautiful little trees has been going on for centuries in China and Japan. Bonsai trees are usually about balance, you do not want to get a tree that looks like it will fall over.
Branches that stick out towards you are also common pruning targets. Of course, what you prune from your plant should be your personal decision. Branches and twigs that can easily be bent towards the “good side” are tied together loosely with bonsai wire.
The more branches you can tie together, the more trees you will have for your little forest. Branch pruning should also occur near the start of spring. Pick the branches that you wish to keep and carefully remove the others.
Techniques cover both indoor and garden bonsai plants. Plants suited to bonsai pruning include ficus, azalea, Japanese maple trees, Chinese elm, bamboo, wisteria, gardenia and juniper.
Techniques such as cutting, pruning, and pinching are used to manipulate the pattern of growth and the result is a magnificent tree that is aesthetically pleasing to the eye. Today, Bonsai trees and their beauty fascinate western cultures.
Fertilize with a balanced tree fertilizer. Remember, bonsai are not houseplants. Fertilizer must be carefully monitored. Fertilization is usually very light and is usually applied in the spring just before new growth begins. During the summer bonsai may require daily watering, depending on the exposure and container size employed.
Trees are cultivated and groomed in a small container to stunt their growth and they are a beautiful miniaturized version of the real trees. It is possible to cultivate whatever trees you fancy. Bonsai trees are mostly outdoors and can often only be viewed indoors for a limited period of time before the tree is stressed and eventually dies.
Some reasons for this include improper temperature, humidity, air circulation and lighting. Bonsai trees are living miniature trees which increase in beauty and value as they mature over the years. Get into Bonzai trees for some are really dramatic patio or unique LIVING home and garden decorations.
Bonsai trees are intentionally allowed to become root-bound in their containers, and the roots, likewise, are pruned. But root-bound plants wonât thrive forever in that condition and bonsai trees must be re-potted every two or three years to leave the roots with new soil.
Bonsai trees are truly an art form. They are plants that are grown in trays or containers and developed so that they remain small. Bonsai trees are offered much more attention at their budding stage by the Bonsai farmer. The main aim of the Bonsai tree owner or Bonsai tree farmer is to provide all the conditions necessary for the Bonsai tree to grow up strong, healthy and aesthetic.
Andre Arnett has a number of different website. You can read more about Bonsai trees at http://www.basicsofbonsai.com/blog. Be sure to stop by and take a look.
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Pruning bonsai trees is important if you want them to stay healthy and looking their best. If you’re new to the process, there are a few things you need to know. This article will give you a few tips to get you started.
Timing
You should make sure that you prune your bonsai at least once every year. Most gardeners do this during the growing season. By pruning away new growth, you will help maintain the shape of your tree. If you’re looking to get rid of old season’s growth, you should do so in the fall.
Pruning bonsai trees can also be done during the winter if you want. If you have a deciduous tree, it will be a little easier for you to see what needs to be cut. However, you shouldn’t prune if the temperature outside is below freezing. The wood will likely shatter when you cut it.
Branches
You will most likely need to cut some branches away. You should start out by removing small branches that are growing toward the center of the tree where they’ll get little sunlight. Also, it’s important that you remove any branch that is intersecting with another branch.
Leaves
If you own a certain type of tropical or deciduous tree, you may also need to prune some leaves. This is done to get rid of ugly leaves and also to trim away large ones. You should cut leaves using very fine scissors. Make the cut directly behind the leaf instead of further up the steam. Also, if you cut away a lot of leaves, you need to make sure that you leave enough so that your tree can maintain enough energy.
These are a few tips for pruning bonsai trees. In addition to pruning, there are many other things you need to learn about proper bonsai tree care. So, click here now to learn everything you need to know about growing bonsai trees.
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Most beginning bonsai artists will purchase a tree at some point of development and step by step learn to care for it. The beginner will graduate later on to pruning, trimming, wiring and other more advanced practices. At some point in his or her education, the enticement to undertake the challenge of producing a bonsai from seed will seem irresistible.
Here are some tips on how to grow your first bonsai tree from scratch.
Trees develop from seeds. True, many begin as seedlings, prunings or offshoots of mature trees. But the whole enterprise begins with seeds. In order for those seeds to become trees they pass through a stage called germination.
Sitting in the cold, wet soil of wintertime and springtime slowly dampens the seed’s casing or coat and induces early growth. Soil bacterium aid the process along. Nature provides the clues the bonsai artist should follow in order to give the young plant a proper start.
Planting in the autumn allows for the seeds to undergo this process, slowly and naturally. An artificial, and perfectly valid, method of seed preparation is known as ‘cold stratification’. It consists, essentially, of preparing seeds artificially by placing them in a container in the refrigerator to imitate natural conditions.
Whether preparing the seeds artificially or allowing for nature to do it for you, this discontinues the seed’s dormancy and leads to germination. It often happens that this will take a year or longer, with seeds beginning to germinate in the springtime a year and a half after the autumn sowing.
The length of time will vary by species, climate and even individual seed. Plants, like any other species, is composed of individuals with their own timetable.
You will be able to give your seeds some help by suitable fertilization, but exercise moderation. Once per month in early spring to mid-summer with 10-10-10 NKP (nitrogen (N), phosphates (P) and potassium (K)) is plenty. Fertilization should begin when the soil begins to warm up. If you maintain the pot indoors, this can be controlled artificially with a heat lamp, but this is more effort.
It’s important that the soil be kept moist, but not too wet. Moisture is important, but overly wet soil will kill a developing plant as quickly as soil too dry.
Naturally, finding out the correct balance will require some experimentation. Those experimentations can be sharpened by the usage of a moisture gauge, a thermometer-like device that measures water content in the soil. In point of fact, it’s helpful to have a thermometer, too!
Sow them in a container of beneficial soil, and then monitor occasionally as the year progresses. Seeds should be planted about 1/2 inch to 1/4 inch below the surface in soil with good drainage.
Once you have a little tree thrusting a tiny trunk above the surface you are on your way. But keep in mind that producing a bonsai from seeds takes several years. Brace oneself for a long term project!
I am a Horticulturist with over 30 years experience in the UK,I have been keeping bonsai for over 20 years – and still learning.
My website incorparates articles,auctions, books ebook and video.
http://thebonsaitrees.com
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Graham Potter of Kaizen Bonsai Shows simple techniques to style bonsai trees.
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There are many things that you have to do when growing a bonsai tree. One of the most important is being able to water the plant properly and at the right time. People who are growing them for the first time will usually kill them due to a lack of watering or too much of it. When you do not give them enough water they will die from dehydration. Too much water and you will drown them.
How you water them will depend on the type of bonsai tree you are growing, the soil you are using, and the type of plant pot that you are using. Certain species of trees will require different amounts of water. There are some types of soils that will soak up water fast and others that will take a few hours to drink it all.
The Japanese began the art of growing a Bonsai tree so it is no wonder that we are looking to them for the Bonsai watering tips that will help. According to an old Japanese adage it is important to water your plant three times for the soil, tree, and the pot. This process allows the water to thoroughly work itself into the soil and the pot. It will also leave a little bit of water behind for the tree to use later when it needs it the most.
Because all parts of the tree need some amount of water you cannot just pour the water into the soil and be done with it. At least 35% of the water that goes to the tree is not for the root system. Use some of the water to keep the leaves clean and dust and dirt off of them. The dust will also close up the holes that it uses to breathe.
It is better that you water your Bonsai a little bit even when it is raining. Just because it might be getting some amount of water from the rain doesn’t mean that it is getting in the right area. To make sure that it doesn’t drown you need to prop the pota few inches to remove excess water.
Once a week you need to place your pot in water making sure to cover the top completely. Keep it there until you stop seeing little bubbles rise to the surface. This step helps to make sure that the whole of the plant and soil is getting watered and will also help to make sure that they stay thoroughly watered throughout the rest of the week.
These Bonsai Watering Tips are sure to make growing a Bonsai much easier and more successful. Bonsai Gardener has many more Bonsai Care Instructions that you will find useful.
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Do you know what the most common cause of death for bonsai trees is? Believe it or not, it is improper watering.
Most people think that watering should be the simplest of matters when, in fact, for bonsai trees at least, it is the most important thing that you can do and not do it correctly can kill your tree. In fact, improper watering kills more bonsai’s than anything else.
Bonsai trees root in special soil that is rather porous and has quick drainage. For this reason the bonsai must be watered frequently, however, care must be taken to not overwater as standing water can cause fungus to grow and contribute to root rot.
Here’s some steps that you can take to avoid under watering or over watering your bonsai:
In order to determine if your bonsai needs water or not you must test the soil to see how moist it is. Touch the top of the soil with your finger and if it feels dry dig a little deeper to see how far the dryness extends. If you want a more precise method you can buy a moisture gauge which takes into the soil and will tell you what watering is needed.
It’s a good practice to set the container you’re bonsai is in into a buck of water so that water can be soaked up from the bottom about once every four weeks. let the water soak in for 20 minutes or so and then remove the pot. Be sure to always lift by the container and never by the trunk of the tree.
Your container should have a drainage hole in the bottom and a tray underneath to catch the excess water. If you find water pooling in the tray for too long you might want to make sure to remove the water so that it doesn’t collect from the roots causing rot and contributing to the buildup of mold.
When the bonsai is growing during the spring and summer you want to water daily making sure that water flows through the entire container and out the bottom but not so much that it is standing in water. You may actually have to water more than once a day depending on the soil in your climate as well as the species of tree. In the fall and winter when growth has slowed you will not need to water so much.
Some types of bonsai like flowering and deciduous trees need more water and other types such as conifers need a bit less. You’ll need to experiment to find out what the right amount of water for your bonsai is. Be on the lookout for wilting flowers and curled leaves which can indicate lack of water and adjust accordingly.
Lee Dobbins writes for http://bonsai.garden-corner.com where you can learn more about bonsai trees.
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